Harbour Island - The Home of Friendly People

There is a tiny little island in the Bahamas, located just north of Eleuthera that is as close to paradise as you will find on earth. Harbour Island, known as Briland by the locals is a mere 3 ½ miles long and 1 ½ mile wide. You won’t find any casinos, departments stores, high rise hotels or golf courses. Ironically though golf carts are plentiful as it is the most common form of transportation on the island. Instead, you will find pristine beaches, comfortable accommodations, delicious food, friendly locals, and a surprisingly active nightlife.

I’ve been to Harbour Island many times, usually in March. That time of year when the grey cold days of winter seem never ending. A week in the warm sun, away from work, routine and traffic jams was always the rejuvenation I needed to stay sane until Spring.

Getting to Harbour Island takes some patience. The closest airport is in North Eleuthera (ELH), an airport about the size of a typical bus station.

Once arriving in North Eleuthera you deplane directly on the tarmac. If you need to go through customs and immigration, you’ll find that the process is quick even though there is typically only one individual handling both. Baggage Claim is only a few feet from immigration. No carousel, just luggage pushed through an opening from the tarmac. Not what you’re probably used to, but you can expect to have your checked bags in hand in within minutes.

Not always though, sometimes things work differently in the Bahamas. On one trip it seemed to take quite a long time for the luggage to be taken off the plane. The passengers were milling about and trying to find out what was going on. After a few minutes we were told that the cargo door on the plane was stuck, and maintenance was trying to get it open. This was a Bahamasair flight, and the plane seemed to be held together with duct tape and bubble gum, so no one was really surprised. I looked to my left and saw one of my fellow passengers drinking a beer. There was no bar or restaurant in the airport, so I asked him where he got it. His response, “Oh, right outside there is a little snack shop, well, not really a snack shop. It’s a guy with a cooler, but he’s selling beer.” I darted outside and bought a cold Kalik (the beer of the Bahamas) and by the time I was finishing it, the cargo door had been opened and our luggage was pushed into the baggage claim area to the applause of the passengers.

A short taxi ride to the end of the island and a water taxi across the harbor to the government dock. Depending on the tide, getting in and out of the water taxi takes focus. The drivers will handle your luggage and assist with getting passengers in and out of the boat. However, if you have physical limitations make sure you communicate clearly so that proper assistance can be provided.

As an alternative, if you don’t want to fly into North Eleuthera, there is a Fast Ferry service from Nassau. The trip is less than three hours and the Ho Hengy III is a different and fun way travel. The ferry service runs on the weekends (expanded service during holidays and in early October during the annual regatta) and departs Nassau at 8:00 a.m. with a return from Harbour Island at 3:40 pm.

There are a variety of accommodation options on the island. At the high end resorts such as Pink Sands, Coral Sands and Valentines you can expect outstanding views and a staff to cater to all of your every need. If you’re budget doesn’t allow for luxury, there are a wide array of rental properties from large ocean front homes to studio apartments in town. Dunmore Realty can help you find the perfect spot for you budget.

A typical day on the island usually involves waking up to the sounds of roosters who roam the island freely, along with even more numerous hens. Whether staying at a resort or a vacation home, coffee will most likely be only a few steps away. For a quick breakfast, check out Arthurs Bakery for delectable pastries, or a sit down meal at Dunmore Deli or Ramora Bay.

After a leisurely breakfast take your golf cart over to the Girls Bank sand flats. It’s a huge “bonefish flat”, an interest in sports fishing is not required, the shallow waters are clear blue and knee to waist deep for over a mile off shore. If you’re lucky you may be able to find a perfect conch shell or living starfish.

If you’re not staying at a beachfront property, no worries, there are plenty of access paths and the famous pink sand beach stretches the length of the island with plenty of room to spread out. The sand really is pink and as soft as powder! The color comes from tiny shelled animals called Benthic Foraminifera. These single celled animals live on the sea floors, beneath rocks and in caves. Not only is the sand a beautiful shade of pink its incredibly soft and well packed making it perfect for leisurely walks or horseback riding.

On the Harbour Island, the days can easily melt into evening. Consider watching the sunset over the harbor while sipping on a cocktail at Valentines. Dinner options could include fine dining at the Landing or Rock House, or choosing a more casual local option, stopping by Ma Ruby’s or Angela’s Starfish.

If you want to experience some island nightlife, Gusty’s offers great dance music. The club overlooks the harbor and the small dance floor isn’t wood or tile…it’s sand. While Gusty’s has no floor, if you party into late night, stop by the Vic-Hum where there is no ceiling. Part bar, part island museum, at the Vic-Hum you can play pool, ping pong, basketball, or else dance the night away under the stars to native Bahamian music.

No matter how you choose to spend your days on the island, your trip will be enhanced through interactions with the locals. The welcome sign at the government dock informs all visitors that this is the home of friendly people, and it’s true. They radiate a welcoming warmth and will even likely remember you when you return next year and chances are, once you visit this paradise in the Atlantic you will be eager for your next visit.

What’s it going to cost me?

Harbour Island isn’t exactly a budget location, but it doesn’t have to break the bank. The high-end resort hotels can cost upwards of $800.00 per night depending on the season, however, there are many options for rental homes and apartments that cost far less. If you opt for a rental home you can save by buying groceries at the local Piggly Wiggly, though expect the prices there to be higher than what you would find in most of the US, same goes for alcohol.

If you want to rent a charter boat, book a snorkeling excursion, or indulge in a spa treatment, there are great options at typical Caribbean prices. However, it won’t cost you anything to relax on the beach, wade through the flats, or explore Dunmore Town on foot. Like all destinations, cost will vary greatly based on travel style and time of year. No matter your budget I can guarantee you will find the trip worth every penny.